Introduction

Belaying with an ATC (Air Traffic Controller) device is a fundamental skill for climbers. The ATC is a versatile and widely used belay device that provides friction to control the rope during climbing. In this article, we will explore the steps and techniques involved in belaying with an ATC, ensuring a safe and efficient climbing experience.

Choosing the Right ATC

Types of ATC: There are different types of ATC devices available in the market, such as the Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Reverso, and DMM Pivot. It is essential to choose an ATC that suits your specific climbing needs and preferences. Consider factors like rope compatibility, weight, and additional features when selecting an ATC.

Materials Required

To belay with an ATC, you will need:
– Climbing harness
– Climbing rope
– ATC device
– Carabiner(s)
– Helmet (recommended for safety)

Setting Up the ATC

Step 1: Begin by attaching your ATC to your harness using a locking carabiner. Ensure that the carabiner is properly locked and secured.

Step 2: Take the climbing rope and thread it through the larger end of the ATC. Make sure the rope is properly aligned and not twisted.

Step 3: Create a bight in the rope by folding it in half. Pass the bight through both the smaller end of the ATC and the locking carabiner attached to your harness.

Belaying Technique

Step 1: Communicate with your climbing partner and establish a clear understanding of the climbing commands. Common commands include “On belay,” “Climbing,” and “Belay on.”

Step 2: Stand in a stable position with your feet shoulder-width apart, facing the climbing wall or route.

Step 3: Hold the brake strand of the rope firmly with your non-dominant hand, ensuring that the rope runs through the ATC smoothly.

Step 4: As your partner begins climbing, feed out the rope through the ATC, maintaining a controlled and even pace. Keep your non-dominant hand on the brake strand, ready to apply friction if needed.

Step 5: If your partner falls or needs to rest, apply friction by pulling the brake strand towards your body. This action will create friction between the rope and the ATC, stopping the rope from running freely.

Step 6: When your partner reaches a secure position or completes the climb, lock off the rope by firmly gripping the brake strand with your non-dominant hand.

Additional Tips

– Always keep your attention focused on your climbing partner while belaying.
– Maintain a comfortable distance from the climbing wall or route to prevent accidental collisions.
– Practice proper rope management to avoid tangles or rope drag.
– Regularly check your equipment for any signs of wear or damage.

Conclusion

Belaying with an ATC is a crucial skill for climbers, ensuring the safety and smooth progress of a climbing session. By following the steps outlined in this article, climbers can effectively use an ATC to provide controlled belaying. Remember to choose the right ATC, set it up correctly, and practice the belaying technique to become proficient in using this essential climbing tool.

References

– Climbing Magazine: www.climbing.com
– American Alpine Club: www.americanalpineclub.org
– Petzl: www.petzl.com