Introduction
A figure 8 belay device is an essential tool used in rock climbing and mountaineering to provide a secure method of belaying. It is designed to create friction on the rope, allowing the belayer to control the descent of the climber. In this article, we will explore how to properly use a figure 8 belay device, ensuring the safety of both the climber and the belayer.
Understanding the Figure 8 Belay Device
Before we delve into the usage, it is important to have a clear understanding of the figure 8 belay device. The figure 8 is a metal or aluminum device shaped like the number 8, hence the name. It has two large loops connected by a smaller loop, which is where the rope is threaded through. The larger loops provide friction when the rope is pulled, allowing the belayer to control the descent of the climber.
Materials Required
To use a figure 8 belay device, you will need the following materials:
1. Figure 8 Belay Device: Ensure you have a figure 8 belay device that is in good condition and suitable for the diameter of your climbing rope.
2. Climbing Rope: Use a dynamic climbing rope that is compatible with the figure 8 belay device.
3. Carabiner: You will need a locking carabiner to attach the figure 8 belay device to your harness.
Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Figure 8 Belay Device
Step 1: Start by attaching the figure 8 belay device to your harness using a locking carabiner. Ensure that the carabiner is properly locked and secure.
Step 2: Take the climbing rope and thread it through the small loop of the figure 8, starting from the side opposite the carabiner. Pull enough rope through so that you have a sufficient length to belay the climber.
Step 3: Once the rope is threaded through the figure 8, create a bight by folding the rope back on itself. This bight will form a loop that the climber will tie into.
Step 4: Pass the bight through the large loop of the figure 8, ensuring that it is properly secured.
Step 5: Before the climber starts their ascent, perform a safety check. Double-check that the figure 8 is properly attached to your harness, the rope is threaded correctly through the device, and the bight is securely passed through the large loop.
Step 6: As the climber ascends, maintain tension on the rope by pulling it through the figure 8. This will create friction, allowing you to control the speed of the descent if needed.
Step 7: To stop the descent or slow it down, firmly grip the rope below the figure 8 and apply pressure against the device. This will increase the friction and slow down the climber’s descent.
Conclusion
Using a figure 8 belay device is a fundamental skill for rock climbers and mountaineers. By following the steps outlined in this article, you can safely and effectively control the descent of a climber. Remember to always double-check your equipment and perform safety checks before each climb to ensure a secure belay.
References
– Climbing Magazine: www.climbing.com
– American Alpine Institute: www.alpineinstitute.com
– REI Co-op: www.rei.com
